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26 Eco- Textile Labelling Guide 2010 Cotton production principles ? Better Cotton is produced by farmers who minimise the harmful impact of crop protection practices ? Better Cotton is produced by farmers who use water efficiently and care for the availability of water ? Better Cotton is produced by farmers who care for the health of the soil ? Better Cotton is produced by farmers who care for the health of the soil Better Cotton Initiative BCI aims to promote measurable improvements in the key environmental and social impacts of cotton cultivation worldwide to make it more sustainable. Leading participants are international companies such as IKEA, H& M, adidas, Levi Strauss and Marks & Spencer along with NGO's. Since the last edition of the Eco- textile Labelling Guidewas published in August 2008, when the BCI was a working document, its principles have been finalised and are now being put into practise after focusing on generating the interest and involvement of new organi-sations Since the start of 2010, BCI has gone ' live' and expects the first Better Cotton harvest before the end of the year. Unlike organic cotton standards, the BCI criteria allow farmers to use certain types of pesticides and have strict guidelines for water use. It also allows for the use of genetically modified cotton. As such, this global multi- stakeholder initiative recognises the wide array of issues connected with cotton cultivation, each with differing importance depending on regional circumstances. In order to effectively address the key negative impacts of cotton cultivation, BCI will act on the most significant issues, within certain cotton growing regions, while striving for continuous improvement and expansion of its activities to additional regions over time. Scope of standardCoveredNot covered Organic ? Genetic modification ? Water effluent ? Air emissions ? Energy consumption ? Worker safety ? Consumer safety ? Social criteria ? RSL/ Chemical residues ? Responsible water use ? Eco- textile standards

Eco- Textile Labelling Guide 2010 27 The Bra Miljöval standard was developed by the Swedish Society for Nature Conservation ( SSNC) and translates as ' Good Environmental Choice' in English. It is reputed to be among the toughest of all the environmental standards with stringent restrictions on raw materials and processing. The standard applies to all types of textiles made of both synthetic and natural fibres, and through the entire production chain, from fibre manufacture to finished garment. The ' Falcon' as it is also known, aims to inform consumers about other ways to reduce the environmental impact of textile consumption, for example by buying second- hand, investing in quality products and looking after textiles and washing them correctly. The labelling scheme is divided into two levels: ' A' and ' B'. The lower level rank B deals with ' approved manufacture' of textiles from the ginning of the fibre ( in the case of cotton) or fibre production through to the final products which are tighter than GOTS. If the fibre is produced in an ecologically sound method ( organic for example) then the product gets a Rank ' A' grade meaning it fulfils strict criteria for ' Approved fibre and approved manufacture'. There are also certain quality, performance and even packaging requirements for end products which are compulsory for all products labelled with the ' Falcon' logo. Under this standard it is not possible to label a product that solely meets the requirements of a raw fibre. It takes a much more holistic view of eco- textile production. End products A product that is manufactured in an ecologically approved manner cannot be regarded as environmentally- friendly if its service life is considered very short. For example, it's important that colours do not fade or garments do not shrink. ? Products must be durable and perform according to requirements of the Swedish Consumer Agency ? Dry cleaning is not approved and labelled textiles must be able to be washed in water with correct instructions clearly visible on the label. ? Information on the country of manufacture must be stated. ? Formaldehyde emissions from the product must meet stringent limits. ? Product packaging requirements. Bra Miljöval Contact: The Swedish Society for Nature Conservation Box 7005 SE- 402 31 Göteborg Sweden T: + 46 31 711 64 50 F: + 46 31 711 64 30 E: gbg@ naturskyddsforeningen. se W: http:// bit. ly/ d0fTma Eco- textile standards